Cali-based Brandt-Sorenson calls out "creative theft" in the cycling kit industry
I scrolled through an angry post from Brandt-Sorenson - an LA-based collective designing cycling kit and athletic apparel - on Instagram last week and thought it might be interesting to find out what’s gotten them so fired-up.
Before I publish this one though, I should say one or two things about some of the comments. First off, go on their Instagram and read them yourselves. I’d encourage you to. They call into question issues facing the cycling kit industry which need more sunshine. What is creativity versus copying? How does apparel become more sustainable? Is the market hyper-saturated? Has kit taken on the traits of fast fashion? It goes on and on. These are issues that need to be discussed. Things I’m sure we all think about, and issues (myself included) that need to be considered more closely.
Secondly, through writing on this site and others, I’ve received my fare share of kit samples. For free. I value the relationships with the brands who’ve supported me over the years. This post is not meant to call anyone out or to discredit. Just raise some questions - in Q&A format - about kit. What is quality? How long should kit last? What are you actually buying? What are the true costs? Those kinds of things.
Anyway, on with the show. I’ve never talked with Cecilia from BS before but I reached out and did the following interview over Gmail. The questions expanded on their initial post, which singled out the ethical practices of industry. Where logical, I reached out for responses from all sides. Specially I contacted PNS twice, but nothing. (PasNormalStudios has sent me kit in past; I’ve reviewed it favorably. I think they’ve built a unique and interesting brand and I like riding in their stuff).
I value these relationships and perspectives and wish for them to continue. Moreover, I’ve never worn Brandt-Sorenson’s product. This article isn’t a review. Cecilia and her partner Nick are two people trying to grow a business in a space increasingly plagued with homogeneity, and I think theirs in an interesting perspective. I’m not pointing fingers, either, but some images they sent my way for the site bare similarities worth pointing out.
Now Brandt-Sorenson’s co-owner is no stranger to controversy. Read this 2016 CyclingTips article for more on that. But we all need to look more closely at the quality of the kit we buy, so we can enjoy riding it, but also decide what is the watermark for creativity. Quality, too. Anyway, leave a comment if you read to the end or think this is BS. Would love to hear it.
HNH: For people unfamiliar with your kits and company, give us some background on the brand and the people behind it.
BS: Brandt-Sorenson is an established made-to-measure fashion brand, collected by endurance athletes who place a high value on their time and chose to invest in quality American contemporary sportswear. We are a leader in fashion integrity, offering world-class sustainability to cyclists and runners. Basically, its a two-person team operating out of a small workshop in downtown Los Angeles for over a decade. Cecilia Brandt is the co-owner and brand director. She also co-ordinates a global client list and manages our MTM direct to athlete model. Nick designs, cuts and sews every garment to the athlete's measurements. Since starting, he's handcrafted nearly $1million in sportswear, with a return, refund or sizing exchange rate of about 0.1%. That's absolutely unheard of. There are no other brands out there who can match those numbers. Nobody is making sportswear like this.
HNH: Fiery post on creative integrity and kit design on Instagram. Can you give us some context? Enough is enough? Or was there some sort of trigger?
BS: Here's the thing, we are not here to be the creative fashion directors for the cycling apparel industry. Our made-to-measure collection is not some free mood board for a wealthy Danish businessman to mimic into a ready-to-wear bulk production line. This is our intellectual property. Nobody has the right to use it without our permission. Our name is trademarked, and our brand identity is protected under Federal trade dress laws. Yes, we are an authentic, small brand with limited legal resources. Pretty safe bet that you won't get sued unless we choose to crowdsource a legal fund.
Brandt-Sorenson offered up these images, which show resemblances in creative design between kit.
HNH: Calling out kit companies and their owners directly is full on...What did you mean by this one: "NO you may not use our made-to-measure designs and trade dress for your bulk production. Peter and Karl, STOP. NO means NO." Context?
BS: Unfortunately, some believe that if they have more wealth, that they can take the property of creatives for free. That's not ethical, but its the way the world works sometimes. We are not Nike Lab who has access to the best attorneys to enforce their intellectual property ( Jun Takahashi Gyakusou NikeLab vs. PNS example). People have eyeballs, they know what's just, and ethical. Consumers shouldn't need a federal judge to tell them when something has been copied. It's not flattery or homage. It’s theft. Sustainable design is much more than BlueSign certified fabrics, it's about paying artists, designers, and craftsmen a living wage.
We are putting 100% sweat equity into this boot-straped brand. We started with about $300 and have been based in downtown Los Angeles for over a decade. We have no investors, loans or debts. Los Angeles, while one of the most dominant creative hubs in the USA, is also the most unaffordable city in the USA. We have over a hundred thousand dollars worth of arts and fashion education behind our designs, and a ton of invaluable life experience in art, fashion and endurance sports. Nick started competing athletically and sewing MTM sportswear at the age of ten.
HNH: "Giving stolen designs to IG influencers without disclosure violates USA Federal Trade Commission laws." - Are there incidences of this happening that you can cite? Does this happen often in the apparel game?
BS: Yes, we've had a few messages about this practice. Some influencers were given PNS items upfront and then asked to purchase more down the road. We haven't found any IG posts selling PNS (copies of our designs) that are disclosed as actual advertisements.
HNH: Fast fashion is unsustainable - full stop. Why are you calling it out now? Why has it crept up on cyclists (and cycling) so quickly?
BS: Design copying in fashion is actually creating an environmental crisis. The fashion industry is the second-largest polluter globally. Fast fashion profits by appropriating intellectual property from creatives, devaluing them to common use trends, and flooding the market with cheap replicas. Whoever floods a trend the fastest with the most volume is going to make the most money for corporate executives and shareholders. Sadly, 95% of imported clothing into the USA is tainted by human trafficking and forced labor. Americans are discarding on average 80 lbs of clothing a year into landfills, and most of these garments are plastic polyester. We believe that the current profit/power structure in apparel is flawed, and that our made-to-measure direct to client model is the best way forward.
HNH: Three things you want to see change in the kit biz right now - go.
BS: Verified for zero human trafficking, use of sustainable fabrics, a perfect fit.
HNH: Complete this sentence: "Brandt Sorenson wants the next kit you buy to be...."
Authentic.