PEdAL ED's Heiko leans heavily on city cycling culture for inspiration

“Japanese fashion is no longer a simple copy, but a nuanced, culturally-rich tradition of its own.”

W. David Marx’s 2016 book, Ametora, explores the history and rebirth of American-influenced menswear perfected in Japan; a heritage aesthetic that went on to dramatically shape the country’s culture.

Started in Tokyo in 2007, PEdAL ED is perhaps the first Japanese cycling brand to reflect this deep obsession with style, drawing heavily from the classic cuts and colours preferred in Tokyo’s clothing. Kit, too.

I’m not sure why I’ve obsessed over their kit for years; perhaps from time spent travelling in Tokyo. PEdAL ED has always held an appeal (despite now being handmade in Italy, where chunk of cycling industry apparel is made).

From the brand’s 2019 collection, the Heiko Jersey demonstrates founder Hideto Suzuki’s preoccupation with city cycling culture - Tokyo’s in specific - where riders largely defer to simple, functional kit.

Made from Sensitive® fabric, it’s a relaxed fit jersey with three large rear cargo pockets, a side-zip for keys and reflective logos on the front and the back. The colour-blocked bottom-third of the jersey blends in well with black bibs. When on, the effect is a long, lean silhouette for the rider.

PEdAL ED will compete with others vying for share of cycling’s high end kit market.

Our test Heiko in stone is one of those kits you get and reach for repeatedly. On hot humid climbs in central Switzerland, it sits comfortably against the skin and breathes really well, especially when unzipped. Aesthetically speaking, it is a thing of beauty, eliciting many an inquiring comment from others.

The elastic at the jersey base where it meets the bibs is full of subtle details and holds the jersey in place; there is also a subtle cuff on the sleeve that does the same.

Minor knit: the fabric does hold a bit of scent and stink after washing, but it is not unique in this regard. Many kit makers struggle with the limitations of synthetic fabrics. It is otherwise a mirror image of it’s environment: a beautiful jersey that lives up to the weight of expectation. It performs across a range of temperatures and is as stylish as many of the Japanese street wear brands now exported worldwide.

Similarly the Natsu bib short made from lightweight Lycra and outfitted with a two-tone Cytech chamois is a great all-round training short. Specifically appealing: the high-cut mesh waist.

While the company claims it supports posture and muscle compression, the netting from which it’s made just feels good on the bike and has a great way of keeping everything sucked in tight where it’s supposed to be.

Again, in heat when climbing with the jersey open, the mesh feels great and adds a lot of comfort to the ride. Legs grips also are soft and subtly designed. Lovely little details throughout.

Built for training rides, the Natsu’s fit great and are a perfect compliment to the PEdAL ED range.

It’ll be interesting to see where Suzuki takes the brand. They’ve recently offered a line of kit focused specifically on bikepacking while continuing to focus on road. Time will tell. Hope to get more in for test soon.

More at https://pedaled.com/

Designed to win Grand Tour Stages: a look at Rapha's new aero jersey

There’s a well-known LBS in Toronto that was among the first to sell kit from a then London-based start-up long before clubhouses and communities became a thing. I bought my first jersey from them in 2008 - an Italian country jersey in signature merino with the tricolor armband. Mint. The sleeves were short relative to today’s cuts, but it looked dope and it just worked. I still have it, actually; every year when I bin old kit - even if for one or two rides - I won’t cut it loose on account of its now vintage status.

Eleven years on and several kits since, I was stoked to get my hands on Rapha’s new aero jersey the day before a recent trip to Spain. Out of the pack, it’s very considered relative to what’s been produced in the Pro range before. If you read my post on Huub Wattbike from May, you’ll also know I’ve been covering Coefficient of Aerodynamic Drag (CdA) for another project. Rapha invested in aero big time here, so I was doubly stoked to ride it and form some opinions of my own.

The jersey features a dual-fabric construction, smooth fabrics, bonded seams over the shoulder and elongated sleeves to shift air away from the body. The back panel is a super smooth fabric that again works to eliminate drag. There’s quite a bit else going on with the jersey’s aero characteristics - probably more than any single individual will need or care to know about - but we push on nonetheless.

Other interesting features to note: the compression sleeves, a very sturdy rear zipper pocket and three deep rear pockets, all of which make the jersey functional + race ready.

The jersey + bib combination was not included in the company’s CdA testing (gutted about that one) however the aero jersey is a true replica of the top section of the skin suit, says Rapha’s head of design, Maria Olsson. (If you’re racing and really want to limit drag, get the skin suit.)

Relative to the Classic kit range, my Italian tricolour probably wouldn’t hold up against this one in a tunnel. Based on the fabrics, design, fit & precision of the aero jersey in combination with the pro team bibs, the jersey will produce a lower CdA than the classic jersey & bibs, hands down. There really is no comparison there.

To develop the jersey, Rapha went deep, doing a huge amount of market research, exploring theories with experts within the field of aero dynamic science, defined parameters for the end use and purpose of when the product needs and can perform at its best and what will benefit the team the most, wind tunnel testing of materials and textures and more.

For these reason, riders who may or may not be professional cyclists will like wearing this jersey. I’ve found with a lot of aero-specific non skin-suit kit, you tend to look a little ridiculous wearing it off the bike. If I ever test ride any, it’s in the summer months when I’m typically running leaner and generally not the kind of kit you want to pull up for coffee post club run. Inevitably the jersey is too short or too tight, exposing that bit of flesh between bibs and the jersey’s bottom.

Yes it is compressive. Yes it is the tightest fitting of the Rapha range. But it is also one of the best to ride in. And thankfully it is not one of those jerseys that’s looks so aero you feel like sausage casing off the bike. Quite the opposite, actually.

Rapha has built a winner in this one. A functional racing jersey that succeeds on account of its versatility, and not just its race readiness. The elongated sleeves are likely to be your only knit here (if you generally go in for Rapha’s form and monochromatic designs); once you settle in to a nice steady pedal, you’ll see they’re quite functional and comfortable to ride it, as is the jersey holding them together.

(Disclosure: Rapha sent me this kit at my request to review and I’m going to hang on to it cause it’s awesome. There. I feel better).

Sportive essentials: how to nail your first overseas century

I published this shortlist of travel essentials two years ago after riding the Maratona; now in transit to Majorca, I’m reminded of its usefulness. Do I follow these “maxims?” The short answer is sometimes. I do however adhere to one that’s not listed: the rule of 5,000 km, otherwise known as the minimum mileage I think legs need before riding a Dolomite-style sportive (part of the reason I’m off to Spain for an endurance week; the other is to ride for bragging rights with a bunch of middle aged children).

If you’re sitting in an airport lounge reading this and thinking, “where’s am I riding next?”, these essentials might help. Six weeks to go till the Fausto Coppi Granfondo - another three till the Granfondo San Gottardo. Here’s hoping the legs will be ready.

Rent a bike: renting a bike for a sportive might seem counter-intuitive. But with high-end rentals so widely available across Italy, Spain and France, you can save yourself a lot of headache by leaving your bike behind. No need to wrench on either end, no worry of whether your frame will be nicked in transit; renting might even be cheaper (anywhere from 120-250 euros a week) than the baggage fees it costs to take yours with. The peace of mind of mind is well worth it. Pro tip: spec out if your seat tube will fit into your rental and take yours with, saddle attached; it’ll give your ride a familiar and more comfortable fit and feel.

Bring your own food: even when riding Italian or Swiss sportives, where food is generally real and pretty good, I still bring my own. Nutella and spelt cakes serves me well - a formula that works - why deviate? Ask yourself when packing if you can live with whatever the food sponsor makes available, or if packing a 400g tin of spreadable chocolate is essential to your performance. When it comes to ride day, it’ll likely be a combo of both that serves as fuel.   

Show up early: arrive at the fondo early and ride the roads, especially the climbs. Ride every day and from different directions, easing off the gas the day before the event. Visualizing where you are on the course helps you mentally overcome distance and elevation challenges, particularly if you find yourself grinding day-of. Knowing you can crush a climb will enhance your state of mind and make getting to the finish line easier.

Have wrench, will travel: if you decide to bring your own bike to the event, bring the tools you need to set it up. That means your own pedal and 5mm torque wrench, grease and paste and a floor pump. Don’t rely on a local shop or your bike hotel for these essentials. Being self sufficient eliminates variables and will have you on the road almost immediately after you check-in.

Bring one of everything: riding in high mountains means varied weather. On the Passo Gavia in 2016, we had scorching sun at the base and golf ball sized hail at the top. Key lesson? Have one of everything in your kit bag. Long sleeves jerseys, sleeves, gilets, a jacket - with mountain weather these are must haves. Summer at home doesn't mean it will be when you arrive at your event. Having different means not incurring unnecessary costs and being prepared for the weather when you approach the start.  

White hot heat: a closer look at DL Killer's KS1s

I wrote a piece for Cyclist (UK) recently profiling some of the best kit for Spring. These shoes were included, but space (the article was LONG) meant I only added sparse comments on them, not the real estate they deserved (which is part of the reason I’m trying to get Hairpins off the ground in the first place).

Chris Puttnam, co-founder of DL Killer, was kind enough to send a pair on behalf of the company. They are one of the most lively and enjoyable scarps I’ve had the pleasure of riding in recently. A stiff, responsive, comfortable and great looking shoe; the rubber outer, a minor detail, is a great scuff guard and a good example of the care former Italian pro Danilo Di Luca put into conceiving them.

Looking at the market, my only knit with the KS1’s is that BOA dials are better than the ATOP lacing system and I wish they were made using them. Otherwise, these are as high-end as it gets. Sure, they cost 325 pounds. But don’t choke on the price tag - they are worth it. Especially if you go for an aesthetic rooted in craftsmanship.

I spoke to Chris about what makes these shoes so interesting. Below is an exert from that conversation.

What makes the KS1 shoe unique?

Every DL Killer shoe, be it the KS1 or the Vito, is handmade in Italy by craftsmen with generations of shoemaking behind them. Our unique approach to production allows us to create bespoke shoes in materials and fabrics not usually associated with cycling. We have created gold KS1s with a herringbone pattern and a houndstooth version, for instance. Our most popular model still remains our gold KS1 though, and you need to be a true hitter to carry those off.

Something that's rarely seen in cycling shoes today is the real leather outer. I love it, but wonder, why leather?

Leather is a wonderful material to work with and wear, as millions of owners of leather shoes will testify. It moulds to the foot and when looked after will improve with age. The reason leather is not often found in cycling shoes is that it needs a particularly high level of care to put up with the demands placed on it through cycling from both inside and out. Our leather uppers are treated and coated to protect them from the rigours of the road, using a process common with other performance shoes such as inline skates, making them exceptionally durable.

While the KS1’s come with complete customization, I found them solid and comfortable right out of the box. Easy on the eyes, too.

How does the carbon molding process work?

The carbon fibre hulls of our shoes comprise two sections - a stiff outer shell and a mouldable liner. This liner can be heated through the outer hull with a hairdryer and moulded to shape the individual’s foot, where necessary. A lot of people will already find the shoe incredibly comfortable and well fitting, in which case this process will be unnecessary. However the option is there.

The KS1s dovetail nicely with VB's bespoke-like image. What are some of the other design elements that make the two brands seem to fit together so nicely?

Both DL Killer and Vélobici share similar values in design, quality and production. We believe in using craftsmen local to us rather than outsourcing production to the Far East and are obsessive about detail and precision in manufacture. Both brands create products that are classical in appearance and transcend seasonal trends. They are designed to provide the owner with years of dependable service.

What I've really enjoyed riding these shoes is the stiffness. How is the sole made to give it that level of responsiveness?

The outer hull of DL Killer shoes is manufactured from a carbon weave, which delivers incredible lightness while remaining stiff and responsive. The shoes have been engineered by experts in road shoe performance with input from professional cyclists. The stiff sole ensures maximum power transfer from the rider through to the pedals.

Aerodynamics is always the inspiration: an interview with Luigi Bergamo

The first time I interviewed Luigi Bergamo was in 2015 for Canadian Cycling, not long after he left a design role at Assos to start what’s become one of the most unique brands in road cycling kit. The next was last month for a piece in Cyclist, this time to review the company’s Salopette Dottore L1 Bibs, short sleeve L1 Pinstripe and L1 essential vest in camo for a Spring feature (click on the Cyclist link for more product details + review).    

Bergamo has a unique vision of cycling, operating outside the confines of traditional design to envisage something completely different. His passion for design is immediately obvious when we start exchanging emails; five years after the launch of Q36.5, the individuality of the product is forever evident.

The Salopette Dottore L1 Bibs are unlike many we’ve seen in testing over a dozen so far this spring - their fit and comfort is almost without equal, while the L1 essential vest is so functional, well cut and versatile, we’ve been reaching for it on repeat since ours arrived. Over conversation from his office in Bolzano, northern Italy, he talks about the influence aerodynamics continues to have on his clothing and Q’s focus looking ahead.

How have rider concerns for speed and aerodynamics factored into your designs?  

Aerodynamic is always the main inspiration for us. When we presented the first essentials collection, it was really born from aerodynamic concepts or better from part of the lesson that we learnt from our experiments and passion for aerodynamics in general.

For us this is not just something to make you faster but a method of development, a philosophy. To eliminate everything that makes you slower, you need to eliminate the superfluous, the unnecessary, it is the cleanest form, the purest form.

This is our inspiration we called our road collection - the essential collection. Essential is the driver of our development where we eliminate all the unnecessary in order to design functional apparel. An expression of our obsession for aerodynamics is the Jersey short sleeve L1 Pinstripe and the Salopette Dottore L1, where the aerodynamics concepts and the ergogenic performance are fused together.

To eliminate everything that makes you slower, you need to eliminate the superfluous, the unnecessary, it is the cleanest form, the purest form.

How do you know the kit is aerodynamically sound?    

We have done wind tunnel tests on different conditions, by testing the fabric’s performance (cylinder test) and testing the whole ‘system’: rider, bicycle and the equipment. We are really interested in the research side and we are looking also on the CFD modelling that can make some predictions about the drag or through new units that measure and analyse drag in real time.

Good kit is a componentry system made of several variables: not only the fabric properties but also competition speed, the typology of air flow (several times completely different from the static condition of the wind tunnel) and the placement of the pattern construction - all fundamental aspects.

What's been updated this year in the essentials collection? 

This year we haven’t just added more colors but truly innovated with smart fabric development. After introducing wool into the UF Active (see the Cruise Collection), we have gone on to explore more natural fibers like the UF Seta, a new, ultra-lightweight fabric with a high silk content and added silver thread to give maximum results in the area of thermoregulation.

The outcome of this research is an ultra-lightweight jersey: Jersey Short Sleeve Seta that works extremely well in hot, humid conditions but can adapt, thanks to it’s woven structure, to the cool mornings of summer.

What is the focus for the company in the next five years?  

With this year we are coming to an end of the 4 year collection life cycle and with the 2020 we will completely renovate the Essential Collection, not only an update, but we are developing new materials, new pattern construction, in order to offer an extreme vision of what the future of cycling might be.

For the next ‘Olympic cycle’ we have three main focus in mind that work together: first we’re obsessed with thermoregulation and, in collaboration with EURAC research centre, have developed a method to detect the exact comfort zone areas for different types of cycling clothing. The method is based on the continuous measurement of temperature and relative humidity, environmental and physiological, as well as how textiles respond to these various factors. Our method relies on monitoring the performance of an athlete under different conditions. We collect temperature and relative humidity readings through sensors distributed on both the body and on the clothing. We also use thermal imagery to detect the hot spots and see the distribution of water/sweat saturation.

At the same time, we’re tracking power output of the test rider. These methods allow us to explore the relationship between temperature and comfort as well as the relationship between moisture and comfort.

Another concept that we are focused on is sustainability. Our products are made from start to finish in Italy - from the design to the packaging and including the complete production of both the materials and the finished pieces. Our footprint is within a 350 square kilometer radius of Bolzano. Short transport routes during the production cycle result in reducing the production’s impact on pollution. When choosing our raw materials we collaborate with companies that have a social responsibility, for example they restrict their use of water in the production cycle such as the dying of fibers and materials. When possible, we use recycled fibers as long as we are sure they will not compromise our end product. Q36.5 also uses eco-sustainable raw materials such as post-consumer recycled yarns, biodegradable fibers and natural fibers.

The third element, that is also our raison d’etre, is to create a more functional product. A product that interacts between the human body and the environment and helps the body to maximize the performance and adapt to the different environmental conditions: our dream is to create the most versatile product as possible, an utopian 4-season product that becomes your necessary equipment.